The Big Loop: Day 23

DAY 23

From The Big Loop

Now it's just down. I climbed Avalanche Pass in the shadow of the Sphinx Crest and emerged into the sunlight atop my final pass of the trip. Well, actually about 150'below the top, but I think I have earned some poetic license in this case.

From The Big Loop

I slept pretty well and started hiking at 6, getting here at 8:40. I've just had a double breakfast to finish my granola, and now I am ready to go down to Road's end and see if my car is still there. I have 6-9 miles left, 2-4 hours depending on trail conditions...

From The Big Loop

Made It!!! It was 9 miles and not too bad. Got to Road's End just before 12:30 under 6 hours for the 15 miles from Roaring River to Road's End. Car's here and intact. Time for food and river washing, not in that order.

From The Big Loop

Final thoughts to come early next week. Probably...

The Big Loop: Day 22

DAY 22

I guess the wind chimed mules get the last laugh, as it is now 2:30am and they just went by my campsite. watering time maybe...

From The Big Loop

I couldn't sleep, again. But I was not uncomfortable this time. I read a bit, confident that I will finish hiking before I finish my book. But eventually I decided to get up and start walking. My route today takes me down to 8,000'. Which is where I am now at 7:45am. The sun has not yet risen high enough to reach the canyon floor and it is even a bit chilly here, now that I have stopped walking.

From The Big Loop

This spacious grove of immense pine trees at the trail junction probably bakes at noon. But for now it is cool and pleasant. By rough calculations based on my TOPO! mapping of the route, and park signs (neither of which is very reliable) I have 26 miles to go. 8.5 to Colby Pass, which is almost 4,000' of gain, followed by a drop of 4,500' to the Roaring River Ranger Station. Should be about 16 miles to there, and then only 10 over Avalanche Pass and down to Road's End. But 3,500' to Avalanche Pass followed by 5000' down to Road's End, my body won't thank me until I reach the car and stop for good.

From The Big Loop

Jeezum Crow!! What a pass! Colby is both one of the prettiest and one of the roughest Passes I have done. The trail was rubbish. Steep, loose and poorly maintained (editor's note: Turns out it is, in fact, not maintained at all.) at one point, I lost the trail and had an easier time going cross country. In fact many of my cross country passes were easier. But the up is done and soon I will start the descent.

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

In fact I finished the ascent a bit faster than I had guessed. Although I though I was being overly conservative at the time. Great views from up here.

From The Big Loop

However ants seem determined to crawl up my shorts, so I will stop writing and head down. One pass to go.

Songs in My Head: Harlem Globetrotters' Theme, and Rainy Day women came back as my trudging uphill song.

From The Big Loop

Guh. I walked too much today. Made it to Roaring River. 27.2 miles according to signage. I did enjoy the scenery greatly. Colby Pass was a fitting end to the trip, rough and though and beautiful. (Am I looking past Avalanche Pass? You bet I am. Did I learn my lesson on Colby? Nope!) I went over my 10 hour limit to get here, but I did not want tomorrow to be a full day. Probably stupid of me. I have enough food for three meals. 12-15 miles is the word of mouth estimate. Sign says 6.0 to the top of Avalanche Pass from here. 6 mile miles to go up 2600'. And then down 5000'.

It is warm here. And low: 7,400' maybe my lowest night of the trip. I hope ti stays warm. I'd like to get a full night's sleep, although when you go to bed @ 8:30 you don't have to sleep in to get a full night.

I had hummus and tuna burritos for dinner tonight, both brilliant and delicious. I have enough stuff to do it again too. But hopefully I'll be eating a burger or something instead.

The Big Loop: Day 21 & 22

DAY 21

From The Big Loop

Well, I can't sleep anymore. It's not that cold. I am not sure what the problem is, maybe I was spoiled by last night. It looks like 8:30pm-1:30am is all I am going to get. So, my Tyndall alpine start is turning into a Whitney alpine start. It is 2:15am now and I should hit the trail before 3am. The moon came up just a little while ago so I might not burn too much battery time. 13 or 14 miles to the summit, on top by 10?

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

4:00PM UPDATE: Did it. Both summits and food scrounging. I was on top by 8:40 and it seemed like I was first, but then I found 3 Italians in the shelter. I was the first to sign the register at least. I got up Muir Peak too. It was both fun and not too hard. Got some tuna and tortilla from some NJ hikers. Oh yeah, Slim Jims too! Those are gone now. I've had a swim, a nap and a binge since returning to Guitar Lake. I'm now going to eat some more and then trip down hill for a bit. Only 37 more miles to go.

Current Song: Lump - Presidents of the United States of America

I have been measuring my progress by maps, since I don't know any mileages. Making it to a new page is good progress and now there are only 7 left and one will be done before tomorrow. (I think.)

From The Big Loop

I have camped by a stream to the south of Big Sandy Meadow. Not a lot of walking from Guitar, but the Whitney map is done and there are only 6 more to go. Yesterday I felt beat up and hungry and my feet were done, at this time. Today I am still tired but my feet are okay, I am full and I have both a sense of accomplishment and the joyous feeling of heading for home with a sense of fulfillment. I have loved this trip. I has been one of the most amazing things I have ever done. But I am ready to BE done. I am not tired of what I am doing. But it is time to be doing something else nonetheless. I am not wishing for "civilized" things, although they will be nice. And I am not eating my hummus and tortillas thinking, "I am SO OVER this food." Overall, I think my body is ready to slow down a bit and mentally I am psyched to be finishing such a big adventure, safely and in high spirits, and with my love for the Sierra multiplied rather than beaten down. (Gee. Hope I am not jumping the gun here. But on the other hand, 33 miles or so seems pretty close these days) I suppose I could make it out tomorrow with a BIG long day,(editor's note: this turned out to be untrue, or at least it would have been a nearly 24 hour effort) but there is no need to rush. I will just continue to move at my regular, although admittedly fast, pace.

For my last thought of the day I would like to say how freaky it is to be walking through a wilderness area at 4 in the morning, miles from anything and to hear wind chimes... when there is no wind. As I approached the source of the wind chimes I noticed that someone had picketed their mules in a Meadow with some very musical bells on. I hope the ringing bells from me walking by woke them up cause it sure weirded me out for a second or three.

DAY 22

I guess the wind chimed mules get the last laugh, as it is now 2:30am and they just went by my campsite. watering time maybe...


(to be continued...)

The Big Loop: Day 20

DAY 20

From The Big Loop

Feeling much better today. I hit the trail at 5:35am trying to get in some hiking under the stars, but I only got about a 1/4 mile down the trail before I could no longer make out Orion. My bivy cave was extremely comfortable, and I slept much better than the previous night. I topped out Glen pass around 6:50 or so. What a trail. Hard to believe there can even be a trail when you are on the final approach to the pass.

From The Big Loop

After a short break I hustled down from the pass only to run into a 45 minute conversation with a ranger from Joshua Tree NP, who was in the Sierra for the first time. I guess he has to be official so much of the time, it (editor's note: it refers to an extended rant on global warming and the state of our society) all came spilling out in this freer setting. (People get naked all the time in the mountains, no one seems to care) I didn't mind listening or discussing, but I did want to get a move on sooner than I did. He seems to be having a great time in the Sierra and I am happy for him. We did bond over the desire for biscuits and gravy. He'll be getting his a bit sooner than I will, since he'll be out tomorrow and I have 3.5 more days after today (probably). 7 miles to Forester, lunch on top?

From The Big Loop

I did indeed lunch on top of Forester just before 2. And now I am sitting beside Tyndall creek just 16.1 miles from Whitney. I decided to scratch the ascent of Tyndall. It pains me to do so, because it looked so awesome as I walked by. And I had planned on it for a while.

From The Big Loop

However, as I walked up Forester Pass I felt a light burning sensation in my right hip-flexor. At first I thought it was just skin irritation, but it got worse and it was obviously the hip-flexor tendon. So, since Tyndall is not going anywhere and I have 58 more miles back to the car, I decided it was wisest to skip this one goal. Especially considering how beat I was yesterday (the day after Split). Now I am going to go sedately down the trail towards Whitney for another hour or so and then tomorrow I will just head to Guitar Lake. I suppose if I get there super early I may have time and energy for heading up Whitney and Muir (weather permitting). But I am not counting on it. A nice easy day tomorrow will not go amiss. With some luck I can flesh out my food supply too.

From The Big Loop

I managed to get over Bighorn Plateau and catch my first glimpse of Whitney Russel and Muir. The view up on the Plateau is absolutely entrancing. Whitney, Russel and Muir, to the left and the whole "Mount Brewer Wall" , to steal Clarence King's description, to the right. Just amazing views in every direction. I rode out a short rain storm in the bivy sack just after I found a campsite on Wright Creek. I am going to sleep without the wet bivy sack, hopefully there'll be no rain or severe wind. I am pretty close to Whitney now, as in I should be able to get up to the summit tomorrow in good weather. I guess it depends on which mileages you can believe. If it is only 13 miles to the top from here and then 5 back to Guitar Lake then I will make it for sure. If it is 9 to Guitar Lake and then 10 more round trip to the top, it might be a closer thing. Although, that is only 1 mile different... I guess I'll just have to walk to Guitar Lake and see what the situation is.

The Big Loop: Day 19 & 20

DAY 19

From The Big Loop

For some reason I thought this was day 20 for me. I have no idea why. Maybe in my head yesterday's effort was worth two days. I was up early and ready to go at 6ish. Turns out, that last night I was nearly at my goal of the intersection where starts heading up to Pinchot Pass when I camped. I felt a bit gassed and the trail started right out switchbacking so I took it easy and stopped for a few photos after helping a Bay Area couple find the Taboose Pass trail.

From The Big Loop

I topped out Pinchot around 9am and had breakfast until quarter of ten, while chatting with a nice guy interested in retiring to Lone Pine. He also wants to do the South Lake to New Army Pass section of the JMT every summer until he can't. (and I don't blame him) Pinchot was beautiful and I took a few more photos before heading out.

From The Big Loop

The rest of my morning was a trudge down to the odd suspension bridge over the South Fork (of the King's River?). Got to hike with a nice guy from Arkansas for a while, and that helped a lot. I didn't plan it this way, but with only 8.9miles to the top of Glen Pass, I ought to get over today if I start walking at 2. I am not going to push it though and we'll see what time it is as I approach the pass. Doing Pinchot and Glen on the same day seems like a better idea than doing Glen and Forester. Toughness-wise that is...

From The Big Loop

Well I have stopped at Rae Lakes. I am just tired today. I ate a lot of beans tonight and I hope that will refuel me for tomorrow. I will certainly do Glen and Forester Passes tomorrow, but I am starting to doubt whether or not I should climb Tyndall. Split was walk up and seems to have kicked my ass. But after Tyndall there are no passes before Whitney. We'll have to see how I am feeling in the morning. I have a great bivy spot here between Upper and Middle Rae Lakes. A nice cave to block the wind. There were more storm clouds, which is my other excuse for not going over Glen tonight. And the clouds made for a pretty sunset, that I dragged myself out of my cave to go photograph.

From The Big Loop

This area is really pretty, but it has been used harder than any other area I have been through. So many impacted campsites and even though this is a Saturday most of them are empty. I hope to feel stronger tomorrow. I want to finish the trip on a high note.

DAY 20

Wow, I wrote a whole ton on day 20 so it is going to have to be its own post...

The Big Loop: Day 17 & 18

DAY 17

From The Big Loop

Made it to LeConte! According to Ranger Bob at the LeConte Ranger Station it's 20 miles to McClure meadows, which means I made about 24 miles without even pushing hard. Although, my feet were certainly ready to stop at 7pm when I did finally settle down for the night.

I had a great day though, my feet did really well. I made good time and met some cool people while walking through some really beautiful sections of trail. I managed to be through the low sections before they warmed up or after they cooled off for the evening. And given my current location I think that strategy will work again tomorrow.

I saw at least 15 Mountain Yellow Legged Frogs at Wanda Lake which was very cool. In the Muir Pass shelter I had lunch while hanging out with a couple of cool guy that had just finished a forest service internship of 6 months. They donated some more instant refried beans to me, for which I was extremely grateful.

From The Big Loop

On the way down into LeConte Canyon I met Anda, a runner from SF (originally Amherst, MA) who is doing the HR (or at least attempting it) in 10 days. I tried to give him some advice but he seemed to be learning the route as he went, which mean he was not familiar with the names of the places I was referring to. I also met a father daughter team that had climbed Black Giant this morning. They seemed like a burly duo, if perhaps not the best route finders.

So, I will get over Mather Pass tomorrow. Time and weather conditions when I get to the other side of the pass will determine when I attempt to climb Split Mountain. Good weather and before 2pm means GO. Otherwise I'll camp and get an alpine start on Saturday.

DAY 18

From The Big Loop

Quite a day for me. I had a long walk through the valley to reach a series of switchbacks known as the "Golden Staircase." They are very tight switchbacks in some sections so I guess the name is not too ostentatious. My early start time of 5:45 or 6 (not sure when I actually started walking) got me to the "G.S." at 8:50 and up it to the Lower of the Palisade Lakes by 10, where I had a nice breakfast. At 10:55 I left to surmount Mather Pass, which I reached at 1:20. I ate lunch on the Pass with Laura (an editor for Wilderness Press) and the whole time I was looking at Split Mountain and drooling.

From The Big Loop

After lunch I booked it down to the Lake so I could ditch my pack and go climb the peak.

From The Big Loop

In a mere hour and forty minutes I was enjoying the fantastic views from a 14'er on the Sierra crest.

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

Everything today has been super pretty (especially since I was through the valleys before they had a chance to heat up). I did my crunches on the summit and hung out for about 20 minutes before approaching clouds precipitated my descent. In another hour and twenty minutes I was back at my gear and I decided to eat dinner before continuing on the trail for a bit.

From The Big Loop

I was walking again around 6pm and at 7:30 there was a a fantastic sunset, the first I have seen on this trip that had real color in the sky.

From The Big Loop

I spent 15 minutes taking photos before finally heading down into the woods to camp.

From The Big Loop

I am somewhere near the bottom of the descent before Pinchot Pass. Tomorrow I'll cross the pass a bit early in the day and then have all the rest to try to get through the Rae Lakes area.

The Big Loop: Day 15 & 16

Whoops. I guess I shouldn't go on anymore visits to the Bay Area if I want to finish this trip report. I am going to try to get out the 9 days without any more long gaps like this.

DAY 15

The feet are not doing well. I awoke cold and unable to get comfortable at about 4:15am and decided to get up and start walking as the best way to get warm. This was inspired both by Brandon and Clarence King who each made "alpine" starts sounds so nice. And it was very nice. However, first I had to deal with my feet. I fashioned a gauze and duct tape patch for my left foot. And it seemed to work as it is now lunch and my wound seems no worse, despite my walking on it for a good ways. However, the blood blister that I lanced on my 2nd toe on the left foot just moved operations slightly to the right. There is also a mirror blister on the same toe on my other foot. If things do not improve: 1) I will run out of duct tape, 2) I may not be able to finish. I know I can endure a lot, but I will have to ask "what is the point?" sometime. I am not proving anything to anyone at this time... but I want to finish. I am just not sure how much suffering it is worth to do so. I don't know if I can cut back my mileage enough for the left foot to heal and 9 more days is a long time for that to linger without real recuperation time. I think it needs multiple days, not just a night or a single rest day. I don't want to take any either. The rest of my body feels just fine, even vigorous.

On the other hand I did get a beer and a hot dog at the top of Silver Pass for Graham and crew. They awesome folks who pack in beer and hot dogs to give away to hikers. They do it for couple weeks every year for the last three years. Seems like an awesome bunch. And the PBR was not bad. Graham is an IPA fan and I would like to hook him up some time.

From The Big Loop

Well, I had a moment there where I wanted to give up. Feet were sucking, and one of my eyes was rejecting contacts. On top of this I was humping 10 days of food up 2000' of switchbacks through a dry pine forest with no view to speak of. Not my finest hour on the JMT. But, mere minutes later I said, "fuck it." All I need is some more duct tape and the feet will last to home. They won't be happy, and I may limp for a few days but they'll get the job done. Plus my eye will be fine (and it was, after an hour of no contact). So I kept moving along the most boring section of trail on the JMT. And now I am hitting the sack with a positive attitude. Just need to keep bumming duct tape from other hikers.

Doing the High Route first was a mistake... and yet not. it sure does make a lot of the JMT seem tedious. But, if I do have to bail out on part of the trip, I sure am glad it is the JMT and not the High Route. However, I would prefer to bail on the JMT section that I did over these last three days rather than the part in Sequoia and King's Canyon. I don't plan to ever walk these last sections again, not as part of the JMT anyway. I may go into the areas for fun, just not to hike through. Once you leave Donahue Pass the scenery gets pretty boring and far away. there are brief exceptions but they become fewer the farther south you get. However, I should be in SEKI tomorrow afternoon. And I will be very happy about that.

DAY 16

From The Big Loop

Wow, it was an interesting, people-filled day. I got up earlyish cause I wasn't sleeping any more, and managed to hit the trail by 5:45. I moved Selden Pass as the sun rose, reaching Marie Lakes right around 8 where I had a nice literary discussion with a girl whose name I can't remember (as always). I moved up to the pass for breakfast and was passed by a guy who turned out to be Alan from Texas.

From The Big Loop

I caught up with him just past Heart Lake (where I saw two chukars) and he and I booked it down to the Muir Trail Ranch together, reaching it just before noon. we proceeded to hang out and scrounge goodies from the hiker buckets. I stayed until 3:30 and met Mary and Michelle who were continuing north despite having no plans and no supplies (now they have plenty thanks to the hiker buckets). I then left to head into Kings Canyon (yeah!) and shortly met Paul. Paul is an experienced Sierra Hiker who I had a great time chatting with, and on top of that he ended up sharing his delicious hot dinner with me, mac and cheese with bacon bits. He also mentioned the High Sierra Hikers Guide from the 70's with maps containing off trail routes now lost to obscurity (sort of).

In the end I have moved from Bear Creek over Selden Pass to camp along the west bank of the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Maybe 5 miles inside the Park. Tomorrow I should get over Muir Pass into LeConte Canyon. (As long as I can still walk on these feet).

The Big Loop: Day 13 & 14

DAY 13

From The Big Loop

Well, I cranked the hell out of my ankle, again. But I walked it off and it seems okay. I was just yards away from my lunch break when it happened. Stupid Minarets. Although I think it was more my fault for being too fatigued. I've stopped for lunch at 2:00pm just above (and past) Garnet Lake. It is certainly a long way towards Red's Meadow from Tuolumne, especially since I should still get in 2 or 3 more hours of trail time before camping. Some clouds appear to be moving in from the south. I am not sure what that means for my weather tonight. With any luck they'll stay east of me.

Ran into two repeat customers today. Trevor from the backpacker's campground in Tuolumne and blue hat guy that I met while heading north on the John Muir Trail past Palisade Lakes. I think we were both a little surprised to run into each other, and he failed to recognize me right away because of the increase in my facial hair. Donahue Pass was about as lovely as I remembered it, despite my much great wealth of comparison material as opposed to the last time I saw it.

From The Big Loop

Thousand Island Lake and the surrounding lakes are very cool, but the Ritter Range just doesn't feel the same as other parts of the Sierra. Fortunately, I shall be back in the good stuff very soon, especially at this pace.

So I think I accomplished my goal of finishing all the uphill portions of trail between me and Red's Meadow. In fact I should be there for breakfast tomorrow. And that will allow an early start on the post-Red's Meadow JMT. I think that today's pace was too high. I don't believe my feet can sustain it for the long haul. The ankle seems okay. not good, but good enough. I am excited to get the rest of my maps tomorrow so I can look over the rest of the route. I can't wait to get back to the Sequoia/Kings Canyon section of the trail. Minor foot pain is my only real problem. All my other systems appear to be running just fine.

Oh, the trail after lunch today was not too interesting until Rosalee Lake and Gladys Lake, both had cool cliffs at their edges and nice evening light. Their were huge crags near Shadow Lake, I wonder if people climb on them...


DAY 14

From The Big Loop

Got up early and a bit damp. Need to air out the sleeping bag and bivy sack wherever needed. Maybe I should use the walking drying technique. Well, I have come and gone from Red's Meadow. Hit the trail just before 6 and rolled down to Red's Meadow by 8:20.

From The Big Loop

I had a frustrating photo experience on the way. Great clouds and light an the Minarets were blocked by the the trees and when I ran down to a meadow for a clear view I was too low and closer hill blocked the shot.

From The Big Loop

I got my breakfast at the cafe and my resupply box from the store. I jammed as much food as I could into my pack. It will not all fit in the bear can, looks like some of it will be in my pillow. I met a jazz bass player named Brandon who hiked from Lodgepole to Red's Meadow in 7 days and now has to quit cause his feet are giving up.

I left at 11:45 and hiked a couple hours to just short of Deer Creek. I should be able to hike until 7 or so tonight so we'll see how far I get. I might be able to get past Tully Hole.

Nope. Close though. I have stopped at Lake Virginia, lake shaped somewhat like the state of Virginia. It was a cool day even lower down in elevation. I don't know why I was surprised by how cold it is here. I am all bundled up and ready for the evening. I have chose a campsite at the edge of a talus field by the lake. There are some columbine flowers blooming nearby and that made me very happy, but ti did not last. I am facing potential disaster on my left foot. I was of the opinion that I would just walk through whatever skin pain I felt, muscles and joints might be different, but skin is just skin. Unfortunately a blister formed deep under the skin on the ball of my foot behind my left middle toe. The fluid in the blister found an outlet in the weak skin between my toes (2nd + 3rd), basically none of the skin in that region will survive, meaning I have at least a 2 inch square patch of raw skin, some of which is very deep. I am not sure how I will be able to function with this condition tomorrow and the next ten days. I guess it's appearance in the morning will be very significant. Other than foot skin I feel great and I have no doubt I would nearly fly on the way to Whitney. I am not prepare to stop now. Grr.

The Big Loop: Day 11 & 12

Day 11

From The Big Loop

Not much to say about today. A long walk on a trail or three. But I got my cheeseburger and a beer and some ice cream. A whole pint of Ben and Jerry's Phish Food. Yosemite is beautiful and I loved seeing the familiar rock as I got closer to Tuolumne. Sam and incredible waterfall along the Isberg Pass trail between the Lyell fork of the Merced and Lewis Creek. Met some cool folks around the Meadow. Tomorrow I will try to get to the Valley and back for my rest day.

DAY 12

I decided not to go to the valley. When I thought about it I couldn't see the point of paying $15 to get down and back, arriving in Tuolumne at 6:50pm. That is a little late to get started. I want to head up the trail a bit tonight for free camping and getting out of range of the day hikers. So, I figured the only thing I really wanted was a good book. I am going to get the Norman Clyde book here in Tuolumne Meadows and call that good enough. I'll have a hamburger, a beer, maybe more ice cream, buy my batteries and hit the trail around 4pm. Crunches and push ups might be necessary too. I am expecting to do around 20 miles a day on the John Muir Trail along with climbing Split and Tyndall. A guide book in the store says it's 150 miles from Red's Meadow to Whitney and that sounds like 8 days to me. Based on food I have 12 days left. I may pick up more at the Muir Trail Ranch, but we shall see. Red's Meadow seems so close and to think I have only 10 more days after that... I suppose it is really dawning on me that I at at the true halfway point in time and challenge if not in distance.

From The Big Loop

Up til now I have been hauling ass on trails. I may need to take that down a peg or two. We'll see though. If there are only one or two passes a day the JMT could feel very different as compared to my expectations. Hmm, tomorrow night might be re-fried bean night again if I make it far enough to get my resupply the next day...

Well, trying a new beer is always interesting. This time especially so because in addition to tasting unlike any other beer I have had (other double IPA's, I mean) it also knocked me on my ass. It was an interesting state to start out the JMT in. I had gone over to the Visitor's Center as a last resort for a good book to read, and had success with "Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada" by Clarence King, as in Mount Clarence King, as in pay attention they didn't name a mountain after me for nothing...

Upon my return I resolved to get a burger, some ice cream and a beer to go with my burger. I decided to try the 395 IPA from Mammoth Brewing Company, but it was in a bomber. No problem I've drank bombers before and been fine. But I don't want to start out the JMT with Double IPA in my mouth, I'll need another beer to wash it down... In comes the Sammy Smith Nut Brown Ale. Needless to say given my lack of calorie surplus recently, the effect of these beers was to render my departure on the JMT into a bit of a fog.

Nonetheless I made it far enough down the trail to camp legally. I am just past the Evelyn Lake Trail in the ever flat, very long Lyell Canyon. I lucked out despite my "fog", making good time under threateningly cloudy skies, and distant rumbles of thunder. But, it didn't rain (more than a few drops) and the clouds kept me cooler than I had any right to expect. Well, I am hitting the sack early tonight. Tomorrow is my first real day on the John Muir Trail, and it will be interesting to see how close I get to Red's Meadow.

The Big Loop: Day 9 & 10

Warning: The notes from Day 9 may contain objectionable language. It was not a good day.

DAY 9

From The Big Loop

Fuck the Minarets. Get me away from this gawdawful pile of volcanic, metamorphic fucking choss. Today I met the first person on the trail that I wished I had not met. Old dude told me that the Minarets were the most beautiful part of the High Route. What a load of shit. Ugly brown volcanic rock, loose, sandy slopes. A few nice waterfalls, lot of route finding through brush and trees. I have fallen, on my ass, at least 6 or 7 times! Before lunch! I've almost injured myself badly enough to have to quit! Twice!

I suppose if you like big pointy bits of choss with trees in between, the Minarets are great. I am not a fan. Also, dude told me "no" when I said I was aiming for North Glacier Pass. "No."? Maybe, "That'll be tough." or "That's pretty far." But, "No."? I didn't say I was going to walk to Tahoe or even Tuolumne... Then he examined my map to tell me how to go. And he told me how to ascend a pass. Like I can't figure that out on my own. I've only climbed 2-5 alpine passes a day for the last 8 days. He may be right about my making it over the pass, which is fine because it was only a goal and it might be warmer on this side tonight anyway. We'll see how things go after lunch.

DAY 10

From The Big Loop

Well, I got sleepy and didn't write anything last night. Which is just as well as I was in a foul mood. It was certainly the worst day I have had mentally. Might have been the worst day of the High Route for scenery too, I don;t find the Minarets that attractive. Must be the climber in e noting the rock quality. I am not sure why it was: my resupplied suddenly heavy pack, post rest-day fatigue, shitty rock, bushwhacking, or what, but I was stumbling around like a newborn colt yesterday. It was weird too, because I had a half rest day, big meals, and I slept for like 10 hours. Somehow that did not equal good day the following morning. Last night, however, it was damp, I ate dried hummus, and got chilly several times during the night, but I feel great this morning. I feel more nimble on the talus and here I am at the top of North Glacier Pass at 9am.

From The Big Loop

After this break for granola, writing and a bit of bedding drying, I set out across Bench Canyon, my last cross country section of the High Route. It is a bit sad, but also exciting. I know my feet will be happy with the vast reduction in talus hopping that comes with trail walking. This morning has been beautiful, and there were like 40 marmots enjoying it in the lower section of the pass.

From The Big Loop

I have traversed to just below Blue Lake, arriving at 2:30 just in time to meet a group of Scouts doing the same route as me (editors note: only the same route through the Bench Canyon area). They were consulting the map to determine the best route to continue. I've been invited to camp w/ them at Blue Lake. I'm certainly thinking about it, but also about ice cream at the Tuolumne Meadows store. If I do the pass early tomorrow with the Scouts, I should still make it for ice cream, we'll have to see how I feel when I get up there.

The hike today has been going well. I have felt inspired by the scenery rather than repulsed. There is quite a waterfall down from Lake Catherine. There has been some crazy chossy rock and lots of slabs, none of it has felt slippery like yesterday. It is sort of dry in this section, but there are places where it is wet and blooming with flowers. Lots of the pink/purple not-paintbrush (editors note: later found out that this flower is paintbrush of some kind, just not indian paintbrush). The upper of the Twin Island Lakes was very neat and full of fish. I can't stress enough how much of a complete 180 today has been compared to yesterday.

Bob Dylan's Rainy Day Women - I don't know why but it has been persistent.


Made it. I stepped on to the trail at 7:00pm, it took a bit longer than I had expected after going over the pass near Foerester Peak. It was all easy walking though it was no problem, even when I thought I might have missed the trail. I hit the trail and immediately ran down some switchbacks that looked nasty on the map (and they were in reality too). I didn't want to leave them for tomorrow, and today nothing could trump my feeling of bliss from diving naked into the lake on the Yosemite side of my last cross country High Route pass.

From The Big Loop

It is amazing how quickly I can go from having such near misery on the trail yesterday to near transcendent bliss today. I think it may be that my natural state is bliss when I am out here and the bad day just made everything seem that much better today. It is going to take me a while to get to Toulumne Meadows tomorrow. I have to remember not to try to run there. I may even have to eat breakfast AND lunch before I get there. Relaxing is the name of the game. Every step gets me closer, and I will get there tomorrow. (Camped in the canyon of the Lyell Fork of the Merced River)
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