The Big Loop: Day 23

DAY 23

From The Big Loop

Now it's just down. I climbed Avalanche Pass in the shadow of the Sphinx Crest and emerged into the sunlight atop my final pass of the trip. Well, actually about 150'below the top, but I think I have earned some poetic license in this case.

From The Big Loop

I slept pretty well and started hiking at 6, getting here at 8:40. I've just had a double breakfast to finish my granola, and now I am ready to go down to Road's end and see if my car is still there. I have 6-9 miles left, 2-4 hours depending on trail conditions...

From The Big Loop

Made It!!! It was 9 miles and not too bad. Got to Road's End just before 12:30 under 6 hours for the 15 miles from Roaring River to Road's End. Car's here and intact. Time for food and river washing, not in that order.

From The Big Loop

Final thoughts to come early next week. Probably...

The Big Loop: Day 22

DAY 22

I guess the wind chimed mules get the last laugh, as it is now 2:30am and they just went by my campsite. watering time maybe...

From The Big Loop

I couldn't sleep, again. But I was not uncomfortable this time. I read a bit, confident that I will finish hiking before I finish my book. But eventually I decided to get up and start walking. My route today takes me down to 8,000'. Which is where I am now at 7:45am. The sun has not yet risen high enough to reach the canyon floor and it is even a bit chilly here, now that I have stopped walking.

From The Big Loop

This spacious grove of immense pine trees at the trail junction probably bakes at noon. But for now it is cool and pleasant. By rough calculations based on my TOPO! mapping of the route, and park signs (neither of which is very reliable) I have 26 miles to go. 8.5 to Colby Pass, which is almost 4,000' of gain, followed by a drop of 4,500' to the Roaring River Ranger Station. Should be about 16 miles to there, and then only 10 over Avalanche Pass and down to Road's End. But 3,500' to Avalanche Pass followed by 5000' down to Road's End, my body won't thank me until I reach the car and stop for good.

From The Big Loop

Jeezum Crow!! What a pass! Colby is both one of the prettiest and one of the roughest Passes I have done. The trail was rubbish. Steep, loose and poorly maintained (editor's note: Turns out it is, in fact, not maintained at all.) at one point, I lost the trail and had an easier time going cross country. In fact many of my cross country passes were easier. But the up is done and soon I will start the descent.

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

In fact I finished the ascent a bit faster than I had guessed. Although I though I was being overly conservative at the time. Great views from up here.

From The Big Loop

However ants seem determined to crawl up my shorts, so I will stop writing and head down. One pass to go.

Songs in My Head: Harlem Globetrotters' Theme, and Rainy Day women came back as my trudging uphill song.

From The Big Loop

Guh. I walked too much today. Made it to Roaring River. 27.2 miles according to signage. I did enjoy the scenery greatly. Colby Pass was a fitting end to the trip, rough and though and beautiful. (Am I looking past Avalanche Pass? You bet I am. Did I learn my lesson on Colby? Nope!) I went over my 10 hour limit to get here, but I did not want tomorrow to be a full day. Probably stupid of me. I have enough food for three meals. 12-15 miles is the word of mouth estimate. Sign says 6.0 to the top of Avalanche Pass from here. 6 mile miles to go up 2600'. And then down 5000'.

It is warm here. And low: 7,400' maybe my lowest night of the trip. I hope ti stays warm. I'd like to get a full night's sleep, although when you go to bed @ 8:30 you don't have to sleep in to get a full night.

I had hummus and tuna burritos for dinner tonight, both brilliant and delicious. I have enough stuff to do it again too. But hopefully I'll be eating a burger or something instead.

The Big Loop: Day 21 & 22

DAY 21

From The Big Loop

Well, I can't sleep anymore. It's not that cold. I am not sure what the problem is, maybe I was spoiled by last night. It looks like 8:30pm-1:30am is all I am going to get. So, my Tyndall alpine start is turning into a Whitney alpine start. It is 2:15am now and I should hit the trail before 3am. The moon came up just a little while ago so I might not burn too much battery time. 13 or 14 miles to the summit, on top by 10?

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

4:00PM UPDATE: Did it. Both summits and food scrounging. I was on top by 8:40 and it seemed like I was first, but then I found 3 Italians in the shelter. I was the first to sign the register at least. I got up Muir Peak too. It was both fun and not too hard. Got some tuna and tortilla from some NJ hikers. Oh yeah, Slim Jims too! Those are gone now. I've had a swim, a nap and a binge since returning to Guitar Lake. I'm now going to eat some more and then trip down hill for a bit. Only 37 more miles to go.

Current Song: Lump - Presidents of the United States of America

I have been measuring my progress by maps, since I don't know any mileages. Making it to a new page is good progress and now there are only 7 left and one will be done before tomorrow. (I think.)

From The Big Loop

I have camped by a stream to the south of Big Sandy Meadow. Not a lot of walking from Guitar, but the Whitney map is done and there are only 6 more to go. Yesterday I felt beat up and hungry and my feet were done, at this time. Today I am still tired but my feet are okay, I am full and I have both a sense of accomplishment and the joyous feeling of heading for home with a sense of fulfillment. I have loved this trip. I has been one of the most amazing things I have ever done. But I am ready to BE done. I am not tired of what I am doing. But it is time to be doing something else nonetheless. I am not wishing for "civilized" things, although they will be nice. And I am not eating my hummus and tortillas thinking, "I am SO OVER this food." Overall, I think my body is ready to slow down a bit and mentally I am psyched to be finishing such a big adventure, safely and in high spirits, and with my love for the Sierra multiplied rather than beaten down. (Gee. Hope I am not jumping the gun here. But on the other hand, 33 miles or so seems pretty close these days) I suppose I could make it out tomorrow with a BIG long day,(editor's note: this turned out to be untrue, or at least it would have been a nearly 24 hour effort) but there is no need to rush. I will just continue to move at my regular, although admittedly fast, pace.

For my last thought of the day I would like to say how freaky it is to be walking through a wilderness area at 4 in the morning, miles from anything and to hear wind chimes... when there is no wind. As I approached the source of the wind chimes I noticed that someone had picketed their mules in a Meadow with some very musical bells on. I hope the ringing bells from me walking by woke them up cause it sure weirded me out for a second or three.

DAY 22

I guess the wind chimed mules get the last laugh, as it is now 2:30am and they just went by my campsite. watering time maybe...


(to be continued...)

The Big Loop: Day 20

DAY 20

From The Big Loop

Feeling much better today. I hit the trail at 5:35am trying to get in some hiking under the stars, but I only got about a 1/4 mile down the trail before I could no longer make out Orion. My bivy cave was extremely comfortable, and I slept much better than the previous night. I topped out Glen pass around 6:50 or so. What a trail. Hard to believe there can even be a trail when you are on the final approach to the pass.

From The Big Loop

After a short break I hustled down from the pass only to run into a 45 minute conversation with a ranger from Joshua Tree NP, who was in the Sierra for the first time. I guess he has to be official so much of the time, it (editor's note: it refers to an extended rant on global warming and the state of our society) all came spilling out in this freer setting. (People get naked all the time in the mountains, no one seems to care) I didn't mind listening or discussing, but I did want to get a move on sooner than I did. He seems to be having a great time in the Sierra and I am happy for him. We did bond over the desire for biscuits and gravy. He'll be getting his a bit sooner than I will, since he'll be out tomorrow and I have 3.5 more days after today (probably). 7 miles to Forester, lunch on top?

From The Big Loop

I did indeed lunch on top of Forester just before 2. And now I am sitting beside Tyndall creek just 16.1 miles from Whitney. I decided to scratch the ascent of Tyndall. It pains me to do so, because it looked so awesome as I walked by. And I had planned on it for a while.

From The Big Loop

However, as I walked up Forester Pass I felt a light burning sensation in my right hip-flexor. At first I thought it was just skin irritation, but it got worse and it was obviously the hip-flexor tendon. So, since Tyndall is not going anywhere and I have 58 more miles back to the car, I decided it was wisest to skip this one goal. Especially considering how beat I was yesterday (the day after Split). Now I am going to go sedately down the trail towards Whitney for another hour or so and then tomorrow I will just head to Guitar Lake. I suppose if I get there super early I may have time and energy for heading up Whitney and Muir (weather permitting). But I am not counting on it. A nice easy day tomorrow will not go amiss. With some luck I can flesh out my food supply too.

From The Big Loop

I managed to get over Bighorn Plateau and catch my first glimpse of Whitney Russel and Muir. The view up on the Plateau is absolutely entrancing. Whitney, Russel and Muir, to the left and the whole "Mount Brewer Wall" , to steal Clarence King's description, to the right. Just amazing views in every direction. I rode out a short rain storm in the bivy sack just after I found a campsite on Wright Creek. I am going to sleep without the wet bivy sack, hopefully there'll be no rain or severe wind. I am pretty close to Whitney now, as in I should be able to get up to the summit tomorrow in good weather. I guess it depends on which mileages you can believe. If it is only 13 miles to the top from here and then 5 back to Guitar Lake then I will make it for sure. If it is 9 to Guitar Lake and then 10 more round trip to the top, it might be a closer thing. Although, that is only 1 mile different... I guess I'll just have to walk to Guitar Lake and see what the situation is.

The Big Loop: Day 19 & 20

DAY 19

From The Big Loop

For some reason I thought this was day 20 for me. I have no idea why. Maybe in my head yesterday's effort was worth two days. I was up early and ready to go at 6ish. Turns out, that last night I was nearly at my goal of the intersection where starts heading up to Pinchot Pass when I camped. I felt a bit gassed and the trail started right out switchbacking so I took it easy and stopped for a few photos after helping a Bay Area couple find the Taboose Pass trail.

From The Big Loop

I topped out Pinchot around 9am and had breakfast until quarter of ten, while chatting with a nice guy interested in retiring to Lone Pine. He also wants to do the South Lake to New Army Pass section of the JMT every summer until he can't. (and I don't blame him) Pinchot was beautiful and I took a few more photos before heading out.

From The Big Loop

The rest of my morning was a trudge down to the odd suspension bridge over the South Fork (of the King's River?). Got to hike with a nice guy from Arkansas for a while, and that helped a lot. I didn't plan it this way, but with only 8.9miles to the top of Glen Pass, I ought to get over today if I start walking at 2. I am not going to push it though and we'll see what time it is as I approach the pass. Doing Pinchot and Glen on the same day seems like a better idea than doing Glen and Forester. Toughness-wise that is...

From The Big Loop

Well I have stopped at Rae Lakes. I am just tired today. I ate a lot of beans tonight and I hope that will refuel me for tomorrow. I will certainly do Glen and Forester Passes tomorrow, but I am starting to doubt whether or not I should climb Tyndall. Split was walk up and seems to have kicked my ass. But after Tyndall there are no passes before Whitney. We'll have to see how I am feeling in the morning. I have a great bivy spot here between Upper and Middle Rae Lakes. A nice cave to block the wind. There were more storm clouds, which is my other excuse for not going over Glen tonight. And the clouds made for a pretty sunset, that I dragged myself out of my cave to go photograph.

From The Big Loop

This area is really pretty, but it has been used harder than any other area I have been through. So many impacted campsites and even though this is a Saturday most of them are empty. I hope to feel stronger tomorrow. I want to finish the trip on a high note.

DAY 20

Wow, I wrote a whole ton on day 20 so it is going to have to be its own post...

The Big Loop: Day 17 & 18

DAY 17

From The Big Loop

Made it to LeConte! According to Ranger Bob at the LeConte Ranger Station it's 20 miles to McClure meadows, which means I made about 24 miles without even pushing hard. Although, my feet were certainly ready to stop at 7pm when I did finally settle down for the night.

I had a great day though, my feet did really well. I made good time and met some cool people while walking through some really beautiful sections of trail. I managed to be through the low sections before they warmed up or after they cooled off for the evening. And given my current location I think that strategy will work again tomorrow.

I saw at least 15 Mountain Yellow Legged Frogs at Wanda Lake which was very cool. In the Muir Pass shelter I had lunch while hanging out with a couple of cool guy that had just finished a forest service internship of 6 months. They donated some more instant refried beans to me, for which I was extremely grateful.

From The Big Loop

On the way down into LeConte Canyon I met Anda, a runner from SF (originally Amherst, MA) who is doing the HR (or at least attempting it) in 10 days. I tried to give him some advice but he seemed to be learning the route as he went, which mean he was not familiar with the names of the places I was referring to. I also met a father daughter team that had climbed Black Giant this morning. They seemed like a burly duo, if perhaps not the best route finders.

So, I will get over Mather Pass tomorrow. Time and weather conditions when I get to the other side of the pass will determine when I attempt to climb Split Mountain. Good weather and before 2pm means GO. Otherwise I'll camp and get an alpine start on Saturday.

DAY 18

From The Big Loop

Quite a day for me. I had a long walk through the valley to reach a series of switchbacks known as the "Golden Staircase." They are very tight switchbacks in some sections so I guess the name is not too ostentatious. My early start time of 5:45 or 6 (not sure when I actually started walking) got me to the "G.S." at 8:50 and up it to the Lower of the Palisade Lakes by 10, where I had a nice breakfast. At 10:55 I left to surmount Mather Pass, which I reached at 1:20. I ate lunch on the Pass with Laura (an editor for Wilderness Press) and the whole time I was looking at Split Mountain and drooling.

From The Big Loop

After lunch I booked it down to the Lake so I could ditch my pack and go climb the peak.

From The Big Loop

In a mere hour and forty minutes I was enjoying the fantastic views from a 14'er on the Sierra crest.

From The Big Loop

From The Big Loop

Everything today has been super pretty (especially since I was through the valleys before they had a chance to heat up). I did my crunches on the summit and hung out for about 20 minutes before approaching clouds precipitated my descent. In another hour and twenty minutes I was back at my gear and I decided to eat dinner before continuing on the trail for a bit.

From The Big Loop

I was walking again around 6pm and at 7:30 there was a a fantastic sunset, the first I have seen on this trip that had real color in the sky.

From The Big Loop

I spent 15 minutes taking photos before finally heading down into the woods to camp.

From The Big Loop

I am somewhere near the bottom of the descent before Pinchot Pass. Tomorrow I'll cross the pass a bit early in the day and then have all the rest to try to get through the Rae Lakes area.